A little different this time. We’ve got a Speyside here called “The Singleton”, a 12 year-old malt from non other than the legendary Dufftown. Simpsons fans will be delighted to know that Duff Whisky does in fact exist after a fashion.

Aaanyway, it’s nicely presented in a rather unusual flat bottle declaring its age, provenance and all that stuff. Standard whisky drivel really, they’re al the same, but the shape and the name make it a little bit special.

Uncork it and you’re assaulted with the label’s “fruity hints” for just a moment. The cork is nice and tight as they always are. I’m savouring this one a little more as it’s the first really different whisky I’ve tasted for a while. Now pour some out. Nice colour, not to much caramel but a rich golden hue that seems to mix with the appley scents to put me in mind of nothing less than apple brandy, oddly enough.

I’ve kept it sitting in front of me while I wrote the introduction and it’s been like sitting in an orchard at high summer. Getting a little bit away from the glass the nose is full of scents of apple blossom and fresh cut grass, and a hint of … well it brings to mind the days I spent climbing trees as a lad so it must be something from then. Cracked leather and freshly broken book spines complete the ensemble. Yes I know that’s a silly comparison but there you go.

A deeper nose gives me more earthy scents, warm stone and ancient, toasted appletree wood and mahogany. There’s a definite undertone of general fruitiness. Overall it does smell a lot like a brandy. Something like calvados? I’m not sure.

First taste is actually a little disappointing after all. It’s quite bitter, though perhaps I’ve just let it air a little bit too long. Applewood and nutmeg and a strong aftertaste of toasted pine. Or it tasted hot toasted pine looks, if you see what I mean. Subsequent tastings reveal a more subtle flavour of the ubiquitous apples (baking apples apparently), barley, hints of that fruity taste (loganberries and sour plums). It’s not exactly unpleasant at the start but it’s a little different, and it becomes sweeter as you go on. Otherwise it’s as smooth as its age belies and quite nice.

The scent of this one really raises your expectations, which are let down by the flavour, which is subtle and enjoyable after a moment or two, but which initially disappoints. A subsequent tasting, plus an experiment on the wife has confirmed that what I thought was a bitter overtone was actually more an absence of flavour. She said it was very light and sweet, and in retrospect I agree with her. I was tasting what I suspected rather than what was actually there which was – not surprisingly little, but very subtle. Having grown u sed to the bombastic punch of islays I’ve probably lost some of the sense for lighter, softer flavours speysides and lowlands provide.

UPDATE
After a second tasting I’ve decided that this is really a lot better than I’d originally thought. It’s incredibly light and sweet without being syrupy, rather like licking the aforementioned apples. Marvellous.

If you’re looking for something different this is it. The bottle stands out, it’s got an incredible nose and despite my previous negativity it actually tastes pretty good. Very smooth, light, not too sweet but sweeter than most. Despite this I wouldn’t recommend it for novices. The flavour would disappoint the unsubtle palette (or, as in my case, one that has been trained with the smoke and brimstone of Islay) and they might be put off after the more powerful and pungent common blends or sour mash american whiskies sold in pubs and bars.

Past everything else it still reminds me of a very slender brandy… it’s remarkable.

Acairasthenephobia, Ah-kai-ras-then-eh-phobia, n, a fear of falling ill out of hours (Gr negative prefix A; cairo (or kairós) – right time; asthenes – ill; and phobia, qv).

Since she’s in Sweden right now I gratefully accept the award in her behalf, and will tell her about it just as soon as I’ve had my name engraved over the top of hers and received the large sums of money that must inevitably come with such a prestigious honour.